After the Flood

Katrina or When Climate Change
Collided Against the Racial Divide

They called for help but it never came. As the nation witnessed entire counties drown on TV, the president refused to cut down his vacations. The storm turned the Big Easy into one of the hardest places on Earth to survive. And a compromised recovery would be short and flawed and unequal.
They promised to rebuild but more than lives, personal belongings, and memorabilia got lost in the flood. Gone was also both New Orleans’ patina of a supposedly racial democracy, and yet another national lame excuse to deny climate change.
As it goes, both were currency during the Bush administration in the immediate post 9/11 era, when his government acquired immense powers to avenge, in a phony cowboy way, the open wounds of American society. Katrina, thus, was far from a ‘natural’ disaster.
The government that sent to the U.N. an honored but misguided black Secretary of State, to justify the Iraq invasion with manufactured evidence, had also promoted an energy policy based on fossil fuels that’s now directly linked to the climate deterioration of the planet.
A policy that, while lining government officials’ pockets, from the VIP down to close allies in the industry and oil-producing countries, has been instrumental for an explosive growth in the destructive power of storms such as Karina, and the wild fires now raging in the West Coast.

Despite our first black president‘s usual brand of shinning rhetoric and optimism about the future, the state of race relations in this (more)
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* New Orleans Remembers

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Tracking Momoland

The Forgotten Fun
of Brazil’s Old Revelry

Carnival, the world’s biggest party is on, even though it’s hardly the pagan, all-inclusive fun it once was. Whether in its biggest setting in Rio, or in New Orleans, across the Caribbean nations or even in Venice, it grew in form as its substance’s dwindled.
Costumes are flashier, the music got louder, party-goers are bolder (as costs skyrocketed) but somehow there’s also more longing for the lost innocence of yesteryear. We don’t meant to be nostalgic, though; just the typical Ash Wednesday-born party poopers.

But never mind the bullocks. If you’re ready for some fun, by all means, this is the time. Join the samba in Brazil, follow a jazz parade in Louisiana, or waltz to the Italian Bal Masqué; they’re all worthy soundtracks to your sense of abandonment and debauchery.
And check these pics out, from when Brazil’s carnival was measured by how much enjoyment you could pack without spending a penny. See the homemade cross-dressing, the cheap face mascaras, the pedestrian expressions of pure delight. Grandpa knew best.
It’s our humble homage to those lives that went before, and how we can still relate to them partying or having a ball. Bring the kids, call your neighbors, and fall in love. As some used to say in, have the most now, and forget all about the morning after Fat Tuesday.

One Last Thing

‘Before I Die, I Want to
Evaporate Into the Light’

There’re many who believe that you get more out of life by compiling, and pursuing, a bucket list. An inventory of everything we’d like to do before we die is said to help us focus on what’s really important. Besides, putting wishes on writing makes them appear reachable, unlike so much else that life’s about.
Now, with her latest public project, artist Candy Chang gives a twist to the old concept: the single-line bucket list. Before I Die has been traveling the world for over a year, allowing common citizens of many nations to express at least one desire they’d like to fulfill before, well, it’s too late for anything else.
The simplicity and straightforwardness of the project resembles an open-air classroom, including the old-fashioned combo, the blackboard and a piece of chalk. Chang even lends a hand to curious minds and passer-by philosophers, adding the useful teaser, ‘I Want to…’ Their responses range from the immediate to the transcendental.
It’s actually easy to get caught on their apparent single mindedness. ‘I want to explore the world,’ or ‘tell mom I love her’ and variations, are some of the most common. Others try for the highfalutin and wind up faking it: ‘I want to embrace,’ ‘understand why I’m here,’ and this post’s own headline, can all be cringe-inducing.
But even if some sound prosaic or pretentious or hollow, it’s a completely different experience when you have to add your own contribution. That’s what Brazilians may be considering now, as the Continue reading

Drowning Nations

Global Warming May Claim
Its First Micronesian Nation

The 29 low-lying coral atolls in the Pacific Ocean that make up the Republic of the Marshall Islands have a history that goes back four thousand years. This Micronesian nation was named after an English captain, hosted U.S. WWII battles against the Japanese and nuclear tests, and was ruled by a succession of European powers. It finally became a self-governing country in 1979.
It’s now the first one risking to disappear for good, under the threat of rising sea levels. Its 60 thousand plus inhabitants are running against the clock so it can also be declared the first Continue reading

New Orleans Reborn

The Pain Is Still Big &
It Hasn’t Got Any Easier

It’s been five years since Hurricane Katrina slammed the Louisiana coast, drowning New Orleans, killing over 1,800 and leaving more than $80 billion worth of damage on its wake. It was one of the darkest hours among so many dark hours of the Bush administration.
Before any help was at hand, wave after wave pummeled the Big Easy and leveled some of its poorest neighborhoods. Entire city blocks were destroyed beyond recognition and remain covered in debris. A lot of what’s been known about the place may have disappeared for good.
Residents who could not flee the city in time sough refuge in the ill-prepared Superdome and Convention Center, where soon enough they ran out of food, water and minimal hygiene. In fact, conditions were so unsanitary that the corpses of many who died there remained for days side by side with the barely living.
The reputation of federal agencies such as FEMA, which up to then had a clean record of efficiency, was ruined under the president’s personal friend Michael Brown, whose only prior professional credential was his past as a rodeo booker, and who’s still to take full responsibility for his omissions and mismanagement during the disaster.
The Coast and the National Guard, other government agencies, and countless anonymous volunteers, all put up heroic efforts but lacked crucial resources needed in the aftermath of the storm. Bureaucracy and a misplaced sense of pride prevented equipment and tools, such as portable toilets and water treatment systems, sent by other states and foreign nations, from ever reaching the victims.
And so on and so forth. The tragedy of Hurricane Katrina was more a consequence of insensitiveness of a president who refused to cut short his vacation time to show up at the scene of the devastation and lead the efforts, than any amount of rain which wound up drenching New Orleans.
48 hours before landfall, every meteorologist and weather expert in the U.S. suspected the city’s floodwalls and water levees would be under too much stress and risked being breached; evacuation of the Lower Ninth Ward should’ve started then, not two days after the storm was already upon the city.
Today, thanks mostly to independent efforts, New Orleans seems to be experiencing a qualified recovery. The noble resilience of its communities, driven by the cultural vibrancy their city was always known for, are the main factors in the commendable accomplishments achieved. But it’s still far from what it once was, and let’s face it: the Big Easy was already being plagued by poverty and indifference from federal authorities even before Katrina.
Whole lower-income housing projects, which were evacuated during the storm and whose management prevented its residents back years after that, were quietly demolished to give away to big speculative real estate developments that are sitting mostly idly.
This time, the collapse of the U.S. housing market was the culprit du jour to justify thousands of square feet funded and built in part by public money, but still unoccupied.
It also remains to be seen whether the rebuilt levees are capable to withstand another surge similar to Katrina’s. Many studies point to vulnerabilities in the Army Corps’ approach at fixing the broken walls and the new floodgates that were just installed around the city, as Harry Shearer’s documentary “The Big Uneasy,” for example, seems to show.
Whether the Obama administration will make good on its promises to help New Orleans come back economically remains to be seen. But the city also needs help preserving its cultural diversity, supporting its aging and poorest neighborhoods, and restoring its status as one of the most original and unique cities in the U.S. and the world.

Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?
I miss it both night and day.
I know that it’s wrong… this feeling’s gettin’ stronger
The longer I stay away.